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Old December 2nd, 2009, 01:43 PM   #1
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Default Cam/Horsepower Question

2000 T/A LS1 5.7 with just a SLP lid, everything else is factory. My T/A is finally running the way it should be, spent $400 at the dealership to tell me that is was my PCM. Purchased new/used PCM (no difference) Fixed it with a $10 can of CRC MAF Cleaner!! Have to love the dealerships! Any recommendations would be good in upgrading the cam. Is there a cam that anyone would recommend to replace without doing a whole "top-end" upgrade? I am also looking for any other suggestions for upgrading the overall performance/horsepower.

Thanks,
Jim
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Old December 2nd, 2009, 11:30 PM   #2
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what's the overall plans for the vehicle? would you like just a baby cam with easy drivability or something w/larger overlap? would you be dealing with smog sniffer BTW?
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 11:15 AM   #3
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Sorry, I am new to the whole engine buildup...
The car will mainly be used for normal driving with the occassional strip run..
Prefer probably just a baby cam and or any other upgrades. Would like to have a little bit of a "hiccup" sound while idling (if you know what i mean)
If you are asking about "smog sniffer" as in car passing inspection, I am in Ohio-we don't have the normal inspections here. People have suggested to just add a performance chip instead of doing any engine work, would this be better?
Thanks, Jim
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 12:05 PM   #4
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Well first of all there is no "Performance Chip" for our cars...... That being said when its time to get your PCM tuned I suggest you get a real tune from a reputable tuner with HP Tuners.... Now as for a cam I personally am a fan of the 224 cam and 228 cam. If m6 on a 112 lsa if a4 on a 114 lsa. Those cams still give you very good street maners and good power.
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 02:47 PM   #5
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Please forgive my ignorance...
What exactly did you mean when you put "If m6 on a 112 lsa if a4 on a 114 lsa"

Thanks again
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 06:47 PM   #6
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M6 = Manual Trans
A4 = Auto Trans

Every cam has an LSA its kinda complicated to explain what the LSA in a cam is but for the most part if you have an auto you want to be at 114 LSA or higher.... The lower the LSA the coppier the cam will be and harder to tune. I beleive stock cam is some where in the 120 LSA
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 07:43 PM   #7
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lsa = lobe seperation angle

like said the lower the LSA and especially the more "overlap" in each cam the more you will have the "hiccup" sound you looking for far as lope. the TR224-112 is what I ran in my old ls1 and was pushing 430rwhp with some ported 243 heads

if your looking for some more power than a higher duration cam would be your choice. You an M6 or A4?
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Old December 4th, 2009, 08:09 AM   #8
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Thanks guys!! The T/A is a A4... Would I have to port the heads or can I just replace the cam? I rear end is still factory, will this be ok?
Thanks for all the info!!
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Old December 4th, 2009, 12:06 PM   #9
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Seeing that you have a 2000. I would personally look into a LS6 intake and full exhuast as in long tubes and a 3" y-pipe before i would do a cam. and no you dont need to port your heads to do a cam.
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Old January 8th, 2010, 10:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngrigo aka NVEEOUS View Post
M6 = Manual Trans
A4 = Auto Trans

Every cam has an LSA its kinda complicated to explain what the LSA in a cam is but for the most part if you have an auto you want to be at 114 LSA or higher.... The lower the LSA the coppier the cam will be and harder to tune. I beleive stock cam is some where in the 120 LSA
Stock cams are typically 116-119 depending on the year and model of engine.

LSA has nothing to do with the transmission.

It's hard to explain(and I'm no cam pro), but basically the lower the LSA, the more overlap you'll end up with and the better it will run on motor. Lower LSA is also rougher idling as stated. Higher LSA's will net you close to zero or negative overlap, and work much nicer with forced induction and spray.

So a lower LSA won't "not" work with an auto trans. It's just more important to have a proper converter, as it will need to idle higher.

My 01 Firebird had a Magic Stick 3 on a 112 lobe separation with a th400 trans and a tight nitrous converter. After about 15 minutes with the HPtuners(which I'm a 100% newbie at), I had it starting, idling, and driving like stock. Idled at 950rpm and sounded wicked.
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Old January 8th, 2010, 11:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b00sted View Post
Stock cams are typically 116-119 depending on the year and model of engine.

LSA has nothing to do with the transmission.

It's hard to explain(and I'm no cam pro), but basically the lower the LSA, the more overlap you'll end up with and the better it will run on motor. Lower LSA is also rougher idling as stated. Higher LSA's will net you close to zero or negative overlap, and work much nicer with forced induction and spray.

So a lower LSA won't "not" work with an auto trans. It's just more important to have a proper converter, as it will need to idle higher.

My 01 Firebird had a Magic Stick 3 on a 112 lobe separation with a th400 trans and a tight nitrous converter. After about 15 minutes with the HPtuners(which I'm a 100% newbie at), I had it starting, idling, and driving like stock. Idled at 950rpm and sounded wicked.
MS3 cam! I like those cams and they sound wicked. Those cams make very good top so they need a nice size stall.... But with a good size stall those things move lol Stock heads?
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Old January 10th, 2010, 06:44 AM   #12
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Yep, stock 241's.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 10:42 PM   #13
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Id go custom...
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