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Old November 19th, 2009, 12:12 AM   #1
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Default 160* Thermostat worth it?

Anyone running these? Does it really bring the temps down or just a gimik?
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Old November 19th, 2009, 10:36 PM   #2
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Good question, I put an SLP 160 on mine a couple years ago. During the install, I some how got my torque numbers wrong and snapped the bolt head off leaving the rest of the bolt IN THE ENGINE block. Needless to say there isn't shit for room in there and it was an extremely painful operation to get it out and re-tap the hole. So if you do it be super careful when you tighten that bolt up.

That being said, I didn't notice a change at all. Temp gauge read the same and even on hot summer days I really never noticed a difference. I would recommend a fan switch over the thermo if you really are trying to get your temp down. Maybe both?
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Old November 19th, 2009, 11:49 PM   #3
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well the coolant temp gauge on the 99+ models are merely "dummy" gauges which aren't all that reliable. I'd say they're not worth the waste of time nor money which could be used far greater in other area's, especially if were talking temp readings
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Old November 22nd, 2009, 02:45 PM   #4
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You may want to research a little. If we had iron blocks, I'd say that a 160 degree stat would be beneficial. However, we have aluminum blocks and they like to be in the 195 degree range to make their best horsepower. Plus, I've heard that aluminum blocks have longevity issues when they don't operate in the best range.

But, I'm no expert... I just play one on TV. I've talked with a number of respected LSx tuners and this the information they related to me. I just swapped in a new thermostat and did a coolant flush yesterday. I put in a stock Stant thermostat.
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Old November 23rd, 2009, 11:42 PM   #5
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you'll need a tune if you want to not have weird things happen. as LS1Addict said, you are by far better off with a fan switch
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Old February 10th, 2010, 06:39 PM   #6
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I am running a 160 stat on mine with a SLP fan switch,along with just about every bolt on you can find(keep in mind I am working with an LT-1)Actually with the tune it seems to run better for me,I like the idea of keeping a cast iron block with aluminum heads as cool as possible,also the coolant pump circulates coolant around the oil filter,the best situation is to have your oil 40 degrees hotter than you coolant,that all ways worked best in our Stafford Springs prostock.If you go with the 160 you DO need to tune it for that.Like someone else said every little bit helps.

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Old February 10th, 2010, 07:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1Addict View Post
That being said, I didn't notice a change at all. Temp gauge read the same and even on hot summer days I really never noticed a difference. I would recommend a fan switch over the thermo if you really are trying to get your temp down. Maybe both?
See below

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well the coolant temp gauge on the 99+ models are merely "dummy" gauges which aren't all that reliable. I'd say they're not worth the waste of time nor money which could be used far greater in other area's, especially if were talking temp readings


Quote:
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you'll need a tune if you want to not have weird things happen. as LS1Addict said, you are by far better off with a fan switch
You dont need a tune.... Just realize that the fans will still be turning on at a higher temp not at the temp of the thermo. The tune is to control the fans which with a lower thermo you will want your fans to turn on sooner. No real point in adding a thermo if you dont adjust your fans accordinly to the thermo
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Old March 18th, 2010, 10:06 PM   #8
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I know thats why I am running an SLP fan switch,it plugs into the stock harness in the engine bay,you have 3 positions on the switch.High fan speed,neutral allows the ECM to run the fans and then a low fan speed setting.There again I have an LT1 so I like the idea of running cooler temps with the cast iron block and aluminum heads.also with the 160 stat you need the tune to keep the engine from thinking that the engine is not warmed up and running rich,at least thats what I have been told and done.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 11:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngrigo aka NVEEOUS View Post
See below







You dont need a tune.... Just realize that the fans will still be turning on at a higher temp not at the temp of the thermo. The tune is to control the fans which with a lower thermo you will want your fans to turn on sooner. No real point in adding a thermo if you dont adjust your fans accordinly to the thermo
you are right. however, i did have mine tuned to have the fans come on earlier and i never did switch out the thermostat and the car runs cooler anyway. i think it's not worth the effort to mess with the t-stat unless you're in there anyway for something else
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Old March 19th, 2010, 12:18 PM   #10
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you are right. however, i did have mine tuned to have the fans come on earlier and i never did switch out the thermostat and the car runs cooler anyway. i think it's not worth the effort to mess with the t-stat unless you're in there anyway for something else
Keep in mind that the thermo is set to open at a certin temp to allow the coolder fluid to run tru the engine... So even if the fans turn on sooner the termo still wont open until a certin temp is reached. 190 or 210 i beleive is the stock termo. so the termo will not open to allow the colder fluid in until it reaches that temp.

You kinda need to do both to run right.... Now in your case since the fans turn on sooner it does probably cool the radiator fluid more but it still wont go into the engine until the termo opens up.
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Old March 19th, 2010, 04:28 PM   #11
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^i understand that. I was just saying that it does run a bit cooler. i believe the sending unit for the gauge is in one of the heads right? i find it hard to imagine that it's in the radiator. the car stays around 170-180 all the time
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Old March 19th, 2010, 04:52 PM   #12
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^i understand that. I was just saying that it does run a bit cooler. i believe the sending unit for the gauge is in one of the heads right? i find it hard to imagine that it's in the radiator. the car stays around 170-180 all the time
You are correct, it is in the drivers side head.... are you basing the guage off of the stock one? Thats just a dummy guage... Maybe your not? Im not saying that it wont work just stating how the cooling system works.
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Old March 19th, 2010, 04:55 PM   #13
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there's only a sending unit that's in the block for '98's. the '99+ actually just use their PCM to be an "electronic" gauge" ...hence why they're basically dummy gauges
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Old March 19th, 2010, 05:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RrCoX22 View Post
there's only a sending unit that's in the block for '98's. the '99+ actually just use their PCM to be an "electronic" gauge" ...hence why they're basically dummy gauges
There is a sending unit on the head of the drivers side... Its how the computer reads the temp.... Hook up HP Tuners and you can get a correct temp reading... Just the guage is a dummy....
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Old May 26th, 2010, 03:55 PM   #15
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I put a 160 in my lt1 and it stays a lot cooler than when it had the stock thermostat.
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Old June 15th, 2010, 12:30 AM   #16
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I put the slp 160 in mine a while ago, no tune. It runs at 165 all day if I'm moving, but because of the fans not being tuned it will run at 210-220 in traffic. IMO its worth it even with out the tune.

btw this mod is butt dyno approved fo mo horse powers
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Old June 15th, 2010, 06:35 AM   #17
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I noticed a good amount of drop in my old lt1 but like others have said here, in my ls1 it is not as good. I would recommend fabbing up a 180 or just use the stocker.
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Old June 16th, 2010, 01:10 PM   #18
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mine runs about 165 or so with the t-stat and i also have the SLP fan switch so it never gets hot, i like it!
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Old June 16th, 2010, 01:38 PM   #19
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i have an 02 ss and u cant tell from the gauge but wen i plug in my scanner it tells me exact readings.
170's idling and driving
works fantastic i do recommend it
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